Snap Shots from Maison & Objet, Paris.

Here are some snapshots from my recent trip to Maison & Objet, Paris. This beautiful city was home base for a few weeks this past month so I thought I’d also share some pics with you. I can't wait to get back – the Parisian way of life is contagious and oh so good for the soul. Want additional recommendations? Or, did something catch your eye? If so, be in touch! 

A few key trends I noticed while walking Maison & Objet: 

Texture was a hot topic

Primarily displayed within sea-worn woods, luxurious velvets, soft cashmere, linen, silks, tactile sheepskin, elegant marbles, woven leather and continual play when it comes to mixed materials.

Mix and match is in

Play with metallic yarns and details. Returning to mid-century modern, featuring rich materials and graphic patterns. 

Lighting continues to be a strong category

Created with all kinds of materials including glass, metals, ceramic, wood and natural fibers.

Prominent colors

Colors such as terracotta, navy, white, emerald green, deep emeralds, mustards, purples and black seem to be mainstays.  

Animal motifs are everywhere

Animal motifs were widely seen throughout the show – there was a lot of leopard print along with imagery of owls, fish and squirrels. Oh and lots of flamingos, monkeys and palm leaves!

 

 

 

5 Success Tips for Artisan Businesses

AOW connects with Carol Campbell, a former furniture industry executive who decided to change direction and dedicate her life to artisan enterprises. Today she acts as a consultant to artisan-based businesses seeking to develop a market in the United States. AOW ask Carol for her five tips on how to be a successful artisan enterprise. See Carol's response below: 

"The US market has changed a lot over the past ten years.  While the level of consumer interest in artisan-made goods has never been greater, the path to reaching that market has never been more challenging. With the decline of independent retailers and boutiques, the type of buyer who is willing to foster a long-term relationship with a smaller artisan producer has nearly disappeared. Ten years ago, I took an artisan product's wholesale business from $15,000 to $1,000,000 in 18 months. Today, the customers who made that possible are no longer around.

Artisan businesses who want to succeed need to be much more strategic about how they approach the US market. That means understanding the market including distribution channels, then planning and budgeting for success. I recommend taking the following steps before coming to the US:

1. Make a Plan.

Decide what you want to do and how you want to do it. Be specific. “I want to sell my products” is not a plan, it’s a pipe dream. The US market, like any market anywhere in the world, is competitive. Who do you want to sell to, what do you want to sell them, and how much do you need to sell to make your efforts worthwhile? How will you reach new clients and get them to notice you? What are their needs, including packaging, shipping and payment? How are you going to address those needs? Are you prepared for their questions?

2. Know Your Target Customer.

The first question to ask yourself is always “Who is the customer?” Do you want to sell wholesale, direct to retail or direct to consumer? All these channels are reached in different ways, require different strategies and, most importantly, differentiated budgets. Focus on one channel initially. Within that channel, what is the design and market profile that fits your product line? If you make traditional, culturally specific products, it may not be realistic to target a contemporary retailer. Try to understand who will respond to your products and anticipate their needs.

3. Price Appropriately.

Pricing isn’t one of the things, it’s the only thing. Fortunately, it’s never been easier to do pricing research. Just pick an online retailer that is either on your target list or has the design/market profile you have decided on. Take the retail list price of a product that is similar to your product and divide by 5.  Repeat. After you’ve done this a dozen or so times, you should have a target FOB price point range.

For a good sense of “better” pricing, I recommend going to West Elm at www.westelm.com.  Find products in your category – it doesn’t matter if they look like your products or not. For example, if you sell pillows, analyze the pricing of other pillows whether they are printed, woven or embroidered. No matter how special your products are, they still need to fit into the buyers’ price point range. Buyers rarely buy outside their price point range!

4. Understand Categories.

Big-store buyers buy by product category. For example, a wall décor buyer will only be able to buy wall décor. These are, for the most part, the only volume buyers – the only ones who will give you a big order. To interest that buyer, you need to communicate that you are committed to that category. Don’t think that you can put one mirror on the wall and attract a mirror buyer. You need to understand which categories are important and what kind of critical mass of products you need to offer to be considered as a resource. Or be content with selling one or two mirrors instead of a container full of mirrors.

5. Have a Sales Strategy.

Whenever I’ve presented a business plan, I’ve noticed that potential investors focus on two things: the executive summary and the sales strategy. It’s not enough to have a product, you have to know how you are going to sell it. Online retail platforms, wholesale trade shows, sales representatives, showrooms – they all have different requirements and different associated costs that need to be budgeted for. It’s not all design and flowers. You should have a plan to get your products into the market and be prepared to pay for it.

Keep in mind that the days when you could show up at a trade show and expect to sell a lot are over. A trade show is not a sales strategy. Today, you need to treat your trade show booth as a clubhouse, not a storefront. In other words, a place to meet the clients and potential clients that you have already reached out to via marketing and sales representatives.

So be thoughtful and be successful! Good luck!"

5 things that inspire Alex Bates of design consultancy Flint & Kent.

AOW recently connected with Alex Bates, founder of the design consultancy Flint & Kent. Alex's lifework is about designing goods for good.  She is one of the most talented product designers that I know and I'm honored to share some of her insight with readers of AOW.  Alex was kind enough to take the time to share the top 5 things that inspire and influence her work.

Alex states, "I strongly believe we are in the era of celebrating the individual both in fashion and in our homes. Technology and social media have sped up trends and given us access to so much globally that no one is at a loss to be able to express themselves. The dizzying speed of these trends, society's shallow celebrity-driven marketing mania, and fast fashion's devastating effect on our environment has reinforced to me the importance of slowing things down and taking a different more considered approach to design." 

1. TRAVEL, always, is my first answer to what inspires me. It takes you out of yourself and forces you to live in the now, especially in new places well outside of one’s comfort zone. I have been fortunate to have a career that has taken me to so many interesting and unexpected places.

India—Jaipur specifically—ranks at the top of my list. I have been so many times it feels like home. It's such a sensorial place with the food, smells, and sights; your senses are bombarded upon landing, both in a good and bad way. It is a land of juxtapositions, the cacophony and chaos of the street with the serene, jasmine-scented gardens behind high walls, the conveniences of high-tech speed vs. slow, methodical handmade work. Master craftsmen are held in high regard here. The artisans that I have been lucky to work with take an open and optimistic approach toward working together and the shared goal of making something beautiful and accessible, as opposed to placing an emphasis on cost-driven, high-volume fast fashion products.

I have experienced this same high level of skill and openness in Morocco with its rich depth of materials and capabilities. Morocco is next on my list to dig into deeper, and I am also looking forward to visiting Africa for the first time in the fall, specifically Kenya and Tanzania. It is part personal, to visit my daughter on her semester abroad, but I also hope to explore and meet up with artisans in West Africa.

It is exciting to witness the start of a shift in the zeitgeist to a “less is more” consumer attitude of more considered purchases. It brings a strong appreciation of the hand crafted and small batch production, and a much-needed respect for our environmental impact and responsibly made, healthy products in our lives.  Brands and designers like Patagonia and Eileen Fisher are helping lead the way in products (and their related stories) that are responsibly sourced and designed to be used for many years and then passed on or up-cycled.  Designing with a simple, timeless ethos contributes to the endurance of these products.

If you want more information on this movement, I highly recommend watching Riverblue, a new documentary on the fast fashion consumer’s true cost and impact on the world.

Photo credit for Indian images above: Gentl & Hyers

Photo credit for Moroccan images above: Joey Deleo

2. The MAKER MOVEMENT and the emergence of makers and artisans shaking it up. Craftsmanship has become the new gold standard and small-batch making, either locally or in the global market, has expanded dramatically. The greats like Edmund de Waal still inspire and Instagram has kicked it all into high gear, creating an unimaginably accessible platform for small makers and artists. Some of my favorites are Nelson Sepulveda & Ay Illuminate, Jono Smart : @jonosmart/ Nikole Herriott : @herriotgrace/ Takashi Endo ceramics  @t_endoh / Jim Franco Ceramics :  @jimgl

3.  CRAFT + TECHNOLOGY. We truly live in an interesting time and the intersection of craft and technology is most inspiring to me. I have a love for the combination of craftsmanship and simplicity; mixing timeless modern design, natural materials, and functionality with traditional artisan skills is pure joy. In the end it supports a viable and sustainable business for the maker while infusing a little soul and a sense of context to everyday objects. I am excited to be working on a personal project that explores this process through a range of different materials, historically based shapes and artisans from around the world. Stay tuned for more details.

3-D design is enhancing the designers’ ability to communicate with makers in a clear and visual way. Holding the actual prototype speaks volumes that does not need tech-pack translations but allows for productive conversations, reducing multiple samples and the related time and transportation, and accelerating the speed to market. The collection of Tuareg-made jewelry that Danielle Sherman designed for Edun, Ali Hewson and Bono’s fashion brand, is a great example of this approach. Their mission of “building long-term, sustainable growth opportunities by supporting manufacturers, community-based initiatives and partnering with African artists and artisans is an inspiring one as well.

The next evolution of this is on-demand production, which is intriguing and  conceptually could greatly reduce our environmental footprint, only producing what is needed, with designers working directly with 3-D printing companies. A good example is OTHR, featured at the recent Design Collective that teamed up with the best of design, both established and emerging, to create products in materials ranging from gold and steel to porcelain. 

4. DESIGN HEROES Ingegerd Råman and Ilse Crawford for their human-centric, elegant, and functional design.  

Ingegerd Råman is one of Sweden's most renowned glass and ceramic designers. She is a 17-time recipient of the Excellent Swedish Design Award and her work is found in the collections of the National Museum of Fine Arts in Stockholm, the Corning Glass Museum, the Victoria & Albert Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts in Copenhagen, and many more.  

I’ve always been drawn to her work as it’s been described as, “modern and minimalist, but with respect for tradition and the user.” I especially love that Råman believes her objects do not come to life until they are used. A design philosophy that speaks to my heart.

I admire how Ilse Crawford’s work is so sensorial and human-centric.  Her design studio’s mission statement is "to put human needs and desires at the center of all that she does.”  Her interiors are comfortable and familiar and make sense and yet always push the boundaries. Her products are simple; “they support and enhance human actions in everyday life." Her first book, The Sensual Home, influenced me greatly in its design philosophy of "Looking at our homes from the perspective of the senses: sight, hearing, taste, touch and smell."

Both designers share a simplicity, warmth, and timelessness in their work as well as a commonsense approach to everyday objects. Coincidentally, each have created well-thought-out collections for IKEA, the ultimate democratic source for good design.

"Today´s trends are out of fashion tomorrow. I am always looking for designs which are timeless and could be called self-evident, but are nevertheless difficult to create.” - Ingegerd

5. ART + DESIGN MUSEUMS: Cooper-Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, and The Met.

I am fortunate to live in NYC where, when I am feeling creatively depleted, I can walk across the park and recharge my engines at either of these two great institutions. They are a constant source of inspiration for me. The Met is a rich archive of historical and cultural work and stunning art, where I can lose myself for an afternoon and emerge completely restored. I recently spent an afternoon with a friend in the Greek and Roman and Asian art wings. Some of the most ancient forms are the most inspiring in their modern appeal as well as informative for a project we were researching for materials.  

I owe a lot to Agnes Bourne, a friend who opened my eyes to the positive power of design early in my career, and she is the same friend who got me involved at the Cooper-Hewitt. As the only design museum in the country devoted entirely to historical and contemporary design, their collection from the ancient to modern cutting edge technologies serves as inspiration and platform that “tells the story of design’s paramount importance in improving our world.” They are at the center of the design community and serve a vital role as a lab for new ideas and conversations. Two of their recent exhibitions were quite impactful. Scraps illustrated the work of "three designers transforming textile waste into exquisite works of sustainable design" and demonstrated the zero-waste possibilities, featuring one of my favorites, Christina Kim of DOSA.

One of my all time favorite exhibitions and ongoing work is their Design for the Other 90%, that "demonstrates how design can be a dynamic force in saving and transforming lives, at home and around the world." The third exhibition of this series that started in 2007, the recent By the People: Designing a Better America explored economic, social, and environmentally sustainable designs that address our communities. I had to visit it a couple of times to absorb it all.

About Alex Bates and Flint and Kent

As Flint & Kent's founder, Alex Bates has devoted her life's work to designing goods for good. Over the course of her career, Alex has built and led teams for some of the biggest names in the business. At West Elm, she led the effort to expand the brand's audience with innovative collections of environmentally responsible products, artisanal goods, and designer-led collaborations. At Martha Stewart Living, she was responsible for the creative development of products that generated over a billion dollars in annual revenue. She's equally at home in a start-up environment, happy to roll up her shirtsleeves and build from the ground up.

Alex founded Flint & Kent as a design consultancy with a special focus on social impact. Flint & Kent is a collective of like-minded product designers, graphic artists, merchants, branding specialists, art directors, sourcing gurus, writers, and photographers. This talented team of individuals is united by a shared passion and collaborate according to the needs and size of their clients’ projects, which keeps them nimble and efficient.

For more info, please visit: http://www.flintandkent.com

 

Product Scouting Sneak Peeks from the Peru Gift Show

For those of you who weren’t able to make it to the Peru Gift Show in Lima this April, I thought I would go ahead and share some snapshots. This is an annual show featuring artisan suppliers throughout Peru in categories such as reversed painted glass mirrors and home accessories, knitted alpaca and cotton toys and children’s items, gourd jewelry, Cusco striped blankets, embroidered bags and belts from Ayacucho, stoneware and ceramics, ornaments from a wide variety of materials, reclaimed wooden tabletop, and of course endless pillows and throws made using the finest alpaca.

After reflecting on the show, I must say that there was not a lot of “new” design innovation per se, but I did see a lot of growth within the category of knitted and woven apparel. This makes sense as more and more designers and wholesalers are feeling comfortable traveling down to Peru; not only do they know that the region provides a vast selection of fabrics, techniques, and high quality materials, but many suppliers also have excellent manufacturing facilities to create your design concepts from start to finish. I was most intrigued by the jackets and hats made of felted alpaca by one company in particular

All in all, I highly suggest visiting this show to connect with some of the top exporters from Peru. If you want to really get out and visit the artisan communities, I suggest scheduling at least 10 days of travel time. If you make your way to Lima, I highly suggest setting aside three or four days to visit Cusco and the Sacred Valley. Cusco has turned into a hot spot and designers are starting boutique shops and restaurants all the time, serving up some wonderful design inspiration.

Hopefully you received my previous email containing favorite spots from Lima but if not, feel free to send me an email and I would be happy to share insight and tips. What are some of your favorite spots? I'd love to hear!

Source: http://www.aowhandmade.com/blog/2017/4/24/...

Five Best Practices for Importing from Peru

AOW recently met with Carlos Arias, a gem when it comes to seamlessly importing your product from Peru. Carlos is based in LA and his brother in Lima, and they have created a business working with buyers to help with your importing needs. I asked him to share five top tips for buyers thinking about importing product from Peru. Here's what he had to say: 

  • Ask the Peruvian company if they have exported to the US before.
  • Ask if they are sending the goods via air or sea. 
  • Ask if the invoice will have a detailed description of each product.
  • Work out the payment method before committing to an order.
  • Ask for their broker information and port of entry to the US.

Carlos Arias provides the following services: 

  • Follow up with Peruvian companies on order status, providing clear communication to the buyer.
  • Provide quality control before shipment.
  • Provide support to the buyer with any issues on their order.
  • Sort the shipment according to buyer's requirements.
  • Provide updates on status of shipment and ETA.
  • Warehouse or ship the products to buyer's location.

In need of these services? Reach out to Carlos directly: carlosarias@inspiredperu.com

Source: http://www.aowhandmade.com/blog/2017/4/28/...

AOW asks Lori Fox of foxLor Consulting to share 6 Foundational Secrets to Scale Your Wholesale Business. This is what she said:

1.     Understand your target market. Who will use the product you are selling? What age range are they? What kind of shopper are they? Where do they shop? Defining these specific questions will help push your business in the right direction to engage with a market that responds to your product. 

2.     Strategize the perfect price-point. After you understand your target market you can then aim your pricing structure to fit that demographic. When pricing take into account the raw material costs, labor cost, and overhead for full time staff, warehouse rental, equipment maintenance etc. Review existing product pricing once or twice a year to ensure you are keeping up with any rising costs or industry standards so you can be competitive in the market. 

3.     Synthesize your production calendar with key order and delivery dates. If your orders aren't delivered on time you are likely to have canceled orders or hit the retailers shelf later in the season and not have product sell through. These issues can mean smaller or no reorders. Having a company calendar with key unchangeable dates such as market dates (ex/ NYNOW), pre-orders, seasonal orders, and delivery dates will help keep your profits up and your buyers happy. 

4.     Engage your buyers. Did you recently receive a new certification (ex/ Fair Trade, Organic, etc)?  Are you running a pre-order sale, promotional sale, or attending a trade show? Haven't received a re-order in a while? Stay connected to your buyers (only with new news) and be sure to leave them with an engaging action through your email or phone call. 

5.     Celebrate your staff daily. Since I have worked all over the world, I have experienced many different work environments that are shaped by the owner and the countries culture. Some of my favorite daily de-stress-rhythms included 15 minutes of yoga before lunch in Nepal, 15 minute afternoon chai break in India, afternoon bread and coffee (buna) break in Ethiopia. Taking some time to come together as a team and stretch or share a drink during a busy day helps refresh your team and reinforce a healthy work environment. 

6.     Express yourself through your branding. You are unique and your brand should be also. Creating a brand that reflects the spirit of your company in a clear way will help you rise to the top in a market full of reproductions. I have worked with a company who's owner has a hilarious perspective and sharp wit. She uses this in their social media and I'm always delighted and entertained to read what pertains to their brand. In fact, I look forward to it. 

Lori Fox of foxLOR is based in the USA and is a member of the Ethical Fashion Forum (UK) Consultants Pool and Advisory Board. For the past 10 years she has offered artisan and fair trade businesses branding solutions and design services that are unique to each community and culture they serve. For more information visit her web site at www.foxLOR.net